The origin legend of the St Martin's croissant is a very well known one. If you’re a local, or have been living in Poznan for a while, you probably heard about it. But there is one other legend about St Martin that is less known and less sweet, but still interesting in its way. It is the story of how St Martin began to be associated with goose and wine. There is even an old local rhyming saying that goes "Na świętego Marcina najlepsza gęsina" which literally translates to “Goose meat is best for St Martin’s (day)” in English.
A saint and a goose
Although as is with legends, they have many different versions, according to the most common account St Martin got chosen by the pope to be the new bishop of Tours. St Martin was a very humble man and did not like to be in the spotlight, thus to avoid the responsibility he hid in a goose barn. He did not choose the spot well, as the loud honking birds quickly revealed him. Hence the association of the Saint with geese. It is said that St Martin ordered the geese to be killed to feed the hungry, but other accounts say that it was revenge for exposing him.
Aside from the legend, goose meat was usually prepared at this time of the year for St Martin’s Day as it was a day free of labour, the beginning of winter, and before the advent period of posting, making it a perfect day for a feast. This is also where the wine connotation comes from. An indisputable part of any feast, wine is under the patronage of St Martin and is perfect for goose meat dishes.
"Gęsina na imieninach" campaign
Poznań is certainly an important place on the culinary map of Poland not only due to the variety of the traditional dishes, but also its rich restaurant scene. In an effort to promote local and regional goose agriculture, the city has been supporting the “Goose meat for (St Martin’s) Name Day” campaign.
As said by Jacek Marcinkowski of the National Guild of Butchers, Meat Manufacturers and Chefs:
“We are campaigning for goose meat to be registered as a product with a Protected Geographical Indication, just like Wielkopolska Steamed White Sausage and the St Martin’s Croissant.”
The organisers of the campaign also aim to create a new tradition in which goose meat would have the same important place on Polish tables as the turkey does on American Thanksgiving.
Where to try goose?
Tomorrow’s St Martin’s Day celebrations will include goose meat tasting events in which those interested will be able to try the local delicacy. Stalls at Plac Wolności will be serving goose meat dishes between 11:00 and 13:00 with further goose meat related activities between 13:00 and 19:00 on Święty Marcin Street.
